Sunday, August 28, 2011
Took the same bus as last time. Coming up the road I ponder why it is that once you know where it straddles the fenceline the rise that is all that is left of Big Howe broch is very ovbvious and yet it is basically uncapturable by cameras. A higher tide meant no seals in the Loch of Stenness only a few swans near the bridge, but no nesting ones. By the east side the tops of submerged plantss made two ovals in the water with green 'pins'. Just below the surface that line of small slabs running from near the north end of the bridge towards Odin Cottage form a long green rectangle. Strange they do not head off to that similar but kinked line coming from the other direction. Have they been stepping stones from when the waters were much lower ? They certainly contrast with the narrow lines of dark rocks in the vicinity. I wonder if there were saltings here as there were abouthands of the Brig o' Waithe and many many other places around Orkney's coastline ? Saltings are created by making a place where the seawater can come in at high tide but is then left behind later and left to dry out in the sun to leave the salt. The same technique is used for fish traps, so perhaps an accidental 'combining' of the two is how salted fish came into being as a preserving method.
This time dinnertime really was the diggers dinner time. Which was fortunate as covering the site for next year was well in hand, with the building in the far corner already fully blanketed in black plastic. So I had a bit of a race against time to complete today's mission. Actually as far as making sense of the site is concerned it is much easier to make out the structures, especially the walls, with the plastic sheet laid on the floors ! After photographing all you would need to to do is 'photoshop' the black for a more useful colour.
Today another big deep hearth stood out. Very close to it are two large slabs on edge making a likely corner. The hearth seems a little close to be connected or respecting it (though it could mirror the hearth's far left corner). One side is a thick rectangular slab and the other is thinner and has one angled end. On the other hand the latter also looks to line up with an edge of a thick tall-ish ortostat. Both have narrow horizontal slabs by them at ground level (that at the orthostat resembling part of a standing stone socket) and another in the space between them. From the orthostat another much lower orthostat runs to the wall of a structure, and by its RH side a small paved area [?entrance] ends at another wall. In the photograph I can see a slighly angled orthostat built into the ? far wall of the structure. Of course even looking from other directions perspective might be misleading me. A diagram would help you see but this would fall under ORCA's no image edict for sure. There are at least two fallen rectangular stone near all of this, one of which might well have formed a wall with the rectangular and another abutting the angle of the corner to its left. I had a look at the drain exposed below the paved circular passage near the viewing platform. It is not much wider than a small soil pipe and bounded by a mostly thin coursed wall, though there is one stone on its long edge I can see. All over the site there are the tops of walls and fallen slabs, the latter as likely isolated as not. Unlike the north end (I can even make out the N/S baulk in one image) the view from the west end spoil heap is really a mish-mash at this stage in the cover-up.
Along the south end the tapes were gone. So I finally had a chance fror a peak from this direction, treading carefully like the seasoned digger I had been. I am particularly struck by a horizontal lang stane, virtually by itself, closely parallel to what was/is the E/W baulk about half-way along the east 'arm'. What is visible is mid-brown, five to six feet long and about the thickness of a brick wall course. The long edge facing me seemed to have a square cut running along the top but I see it is simply that this is a roughly flat edge [??natural]. From here I can see that my corner is less so - there is a gap before the angled slab, which is thin, and the other two stones are the true corner. But all of it is on the same 'grid', with at least another three walls on the same alignment [NW/SE if the baulks do run cardinally] between the walls/structure directly ahint the corner and the site's east end by the north end of the platform. Nick Card has noticed where I am and calls me out as this part of the site is still sacrosanct. I try to see the lang stane from the viewing platform ramp but cannot, though a digger near to it is working close to it and in front of her may be another one [?? or the same], for I can see a big long block with a horizontal split hard against the baulk.
Leaving I take a gander at the finds 'trays' outside being packed. I see that large potsherd with deep ribs and two of the smooth stone balls, one an oblate spheroid (dark) and the other an almost complete ovoid (lighter) with a linear crack running around it (and a piece from elsewhere detached on it, sandy coloured inside).
On the way back I'm not too concerned about meeting a bus. Then I see one almost at Tormiston. If that was the 1.30 from Stromness it would have only had five minutes. Not likely is it. My sort of look though. Coming to the main road there were two people beside the road. Going by the cars going by them I figured that they were on this side, so when I saw my bus coming I didn't run pell-mell for it [last time I did that my upper denture plate rattled loose in my mouth]. But the twa weren't awaiting it so the bus shot through at high speed - I do wish they would expand the timetable to match the usual time the driver does, now every time of day is treated the same. Only missed it by yards. Just the time I took to snap a bee a couple of times with my camera. And the deutsche girls were waiting a lift or bus in the other direction ! So another hour to go.
Went to Tormiston and walked up the first section of the track to Maes Howe to take images of the boundary - not going to the mound so no need to pay. Took a few very distant snaps of the circles and Brodgar. After that on the road again. Didn't quite make it to the Harray junction but when the bus came trotted to a place the driver could see around the big bend. Then back to Orkney Blide Trust to finish a piece.
This time dinnertime really was the diggers dinner time. Which was fortunate as covering the site for next year was well in hand, with the building in the far corner already fully blanketed in black plastic. So I had a bit of a race against time to complete today's mission. Actually as far as making sense of the site is concerned it is much easier to make out the structures, especially the walls, with the plastic sheet laid on the floors ! After photographing all you would need to to do is 'photoshop' the black for a more useful colour.
Today another big deep hearth stood out. Very close to it are two large slabs on edge making a likely corner. The hearth seems a little close to be connected or respecting it (though it could mirror the hearth's far left corner). One side is a thick rectangular slab and the other is thinner and has one angled end. On the other hand the latter also looks to line up with an edge of a thick tall-ish ortostat. Both have narrow horizontal slabs by them at ground level (that at the orthostat resembling part of a standing stone socket) and another in the space between them. From the orthostat another much lower orthostat runs to the wall of a structure, and by its RH side a small paved area [?entrance] ends at another wall. In the photograph I can see a slighly angled orthostat built into the ? far wall of the structure. Of course even looking from other directions perspective might be misleading me. A diagram would help you see but this would fall under ORCA's no image edict for sure. There are at least two fallen rectangular stone near all of this, one of which might well have formed a wall with the rectangular and another abutting the angle of the corner to its left. I had a look at the drain exposed below the paved circular passage near the viewing platform. It is not much wider than a small soil pipe and bounded by a mostly thin coursed wall, though there is one stone on its long edge I can see. All over the site there are the tops of walls and fallen slabs, the latter as likely isolated as not. Unlike the north end (I can even make out the N/S baulk in one image) the view from the west end spoil heap is really a mish-mash at this stage in the cover-up.
Along the south end the tapes were gone. So I finally had a chance fror a peak from this direction, treading carefully like the seasoned digger I had been. I am particularly struck by a horizontal lang stane, virtually by itself, closely parallel to what was/is the E/W baulk about half-way along the east 'arm'. What is visible is mid-brown, five to six feet long and about the thickness of a brick wall course. The long edge facing me seemed to have a square cut running along the top but I see it is simply that this is a roughly flat edge [??natural]. From here I can see that my corner is less so - there is a gap before the angled slab, which is thin, and the other two stones are the true corner. But all of it is on the same 'grid', with at least another three walls on the same alignment [NW/SE if the baulks do run cardinally] between the walls/structure directly ahint the corner and the site's east end by the north end of the platform. Nick Card has noticed where I am and calls me out as this part of the site is still sacrosanct. I try to see the lang stane from the viewing platform ramp but cannot, though a digger near to it is working close to it and in front of her may be another one [?? or the same], for I can see a big long block with a horizontal split hard against the baulk.
Leaving I take a gander at the finds 'trays' outside being packed. I see that large potsherd with deep ribs and two of the smooth stone balls, one an oblate spheroid (dark) and the other an almost complete ovoid (lighter) with a linear crack running around it (and a piece from elsewhere detached on it, sandy coloured inside).
On the way back I'm not too concerned about meeting a bus. Then I see one almost at Tormiston. If that was the 1.30 from Stromness it would have only had five minutes. Not likely is it. My sort of look though. Coming to the main road there were two people beside the road. Going by the cars going by them I figured that they were on this side, so when I saw my bus coming I didn't run pell-mell for it [last time I did that my upper denture plate rattled loose in my mouth]. But the twa weren't awaiting it so the bus shot through at high speed - I do wish they would expand the timetable to match the usual time the driver does, now every time of day is treated the same. Only missed it by yards. Just the time I took to snap a bee a couple of times with my camera. And the deutsche girls were waiting a lift or bus in the other direction ! So another hour to go.
Went to Tormiston and walked up the first section of the track to Maes Howe to take images of the boundary - not going to the mound so no need to pay. Took a few very distant snaps of the circles and Brodgar. After that on the road again. Didn't quite make it to the Harray junction but when the bus came trotted to a place the driver could see around the big bend. Then back to Orkney Blide Trust to finish a piece.
Labels: fish trap, Ness of Brodgar, salted fish, saltings
Sunday, August 21, 2011
WALLS WHEN August 12th 2011
Had intended to make my third visit of the digging season to the Ness of Brodgar midweek, however the weather report for then sounded uncertain and so I decided to take advantage of this fine day. Actually when I reached the Brodgar road by bus I did encounter a brief period of light rain, enough to make me thankful for a jacket but not enough to dampen the spirits. Simply had to take photos of the panoramic vistas about me because the light in the distance so clear. If the bowl of land in which the Great Sacred Monuments of Stenness sits is measured from Bookan in the north to Bigswell in the south then the centre is abouthands of the junction [? Barnhouse Stone], and those are the extreme ends of the recorded mediaeval ritual peregrination. The seals were out bathing again on first few of the larger rocks in the Loch of Stenness (once the Loch of Voy, with the Loch of Harray called Muckle Water). At first you only see them if their backs are arched, otherwise they seem identical to the rocks nearer the ness. On the east side of the ness by the other end of the bridge (originally only very large stepping stones crossed the gap) a swan pair occupied their usual nest, the grey gosling nearing their size. Some small bird called to me from across the way but didnae show itself. On this side going up there are usually fulmars gliding by the low 'cliff' but I haven't noticed any this year - mind you it is late in their season for there is only one nesting at the Bay of Scapa now.
Reached the Ness of Brodgar in between the guided tours, so decided not to ask to look at the finds. Re Brodgar Boy what in one view did look idol-like (despite that lop-sided third 'eye') in another was distinctly a broken-off top with a short 'stem' at the bottom. Now that the rest has been found the object is two-and-a-half times as long and looks like a mini-staff (could be a 'baton de commandement' - the archaeologists name for a symbol of authority and/or for ceremonies - or a representation of one). Including the 'neck' and that stem there are three circumferential grooves that might have been for rope - you can easily imagine it with tassels ! In digging the midden of Structure Eight they have found a stone incised with an earth sign [Pars Fortuna].
Structure One has so far produced several dozen incised stones, the last what what they take for a representation of a comet (but a circle with three trailing lines has other meanings). But the most common symbol is what they are calling a double-triangle and associating with a bee, though these also been 'read' elsewhere as butterflies (contrast this with Banks Chambered Tomb's vees/chevrons, which are seen as birds). Pre C14 dating one at Stonehenge was wrongly identified with the Cretan labrys (double-axe). Much has been made of Stenness infuence on the Avebury area, so is this another indicator ? Finally on site the Neolithic roof tiles were removed, only for more to be revealed at the same place after further digging - the imp of the perverse wonders if this is a dump rather than collapse in sensu strictu.
Despite the very strong wind the first thing that I did was go up the viewing platform. The lighting being distinctly flat all structures tended to merge - in these conditions what is needed for photographing features is a little light rain I recall. First new item to 'pop out' the monumental hearth in Structure Ten. ImmediatelyI thought of the one in the Stones of Stenness circle, though I think comparisons will instead be made with Barnhouse 'village'. Next I saw a long slab with ends framed by angle topped orthostats. This must be the probable Structure Ten entrance they have found - having been caught out before by dodgy contexts they are holding back judgement until they can be certain it does not belong to another period or structure (I saw what could be another rectangular feature [or part of a passage/'street'] directly in front of it). Coming down again it did not surprise me that nothing further has happened to the NE corner that took my fancy when I came here with Orkney Blide Trust the previous week (not realising we would stay for the whole 90 minute tour I'd had to come back for The Work photography) as it is at the very edge of the dig. The day I came seemed to be dedicated to cleaning and recording several parts of the site so I tried to avoid getting in their way.
Nothing major looks to have appeared in the sides overlooked by the spoil heaps - I would dearly love to find out where that drain goes to in the piece by the western edge. Filling the appended SW corner Structure Twelve presently sits in comparative isolation from the rest of the buildings it feels to me. Either that will change in future seasons or it is really telling us something. Going round the final side and that massive squat standing stone still has pride of place in the SE corner. Does it extend much below what we see now or will it prove as shallow rooted as the red orthostat they have recently removed ?
Last year they lterally got to the bottom of the Lesser Wall of Brodgar, only to find that it stood on paving and possibly earlier structures. This year geophysics has confirmed that it goes between the sides of the ness and so it is back to being part of a wall circuit encompassing the site they are investigating (could the paving be an extended base ??). The Kockna-Cumming chambered mound still lies outside the whole and the Brodgar Standing Stone Pair straddle the wall. Are the stones from a prior age or were they put there later than the wall, either much later to show where it was or immediately after to mark it out ? Don't be misled by its narrowness in comparison to the Great Wall as only a ditch seperated the 4m thick Great Wall from one ouside of it 'only' 2m thick. Still thicker though - might there be a presently unlocated other Great Wall in parts still virgin to excavation ?? If the remains below the Lesser Wall are from an earlier period then might we re-interpret the putatative structures and likely hearth found in testing outside the Great Wall as coming from that time too instead of post-dating the wall as originally theorised? Certainly the public perception of the wall's primacy needs revising. Indeed it is my opinion the that the Great Wall (and possibly the circuit) comes yet later in the scheme of things than first thought.
Going back the sun illuminated the Stones of Stenness circle perfectly. Every detail of the northern side of one tall stone turned 3D like a thoroughly pox-marked face. This stone is such a pure geometric shape that any modern mason would be proud to own up to it. Two other stones seen almost on edge could be merged into one or turn into a very tight V like fanning fingers by only taking a few paces forward or back. I noticed that the top of the low stone group could be made to match the gap between two facing hillslopes above the south side of Finstown. Unfortunately I haven't managed to capture this in the shot I took, and anyway the setting has been re-erected twice [that we know of] to match changing fashions in interpretation.
At the junction I turned left onto the main road as I had plenty of time before the next bus. At one stage I looked behind me and saw an oddly coloured high-sided vehicle. Only as it passed me did I see it as a double-decker. This was a twin blow as not only did I need the bus but I had been especially eager to ride a double-decker as these are a new thing to Orkney and should give the car-less new perspectives on features in the landscape. Just not to be I fear. Away from the south side of the road I noticed that a small section of a long mound, or mounds, had become further exposed. All I could see was stone and I looked forward to making something out at last when I uploaded the photos to my PC. So my diappointment can be imagined when all that appears onscreen is a natural rocky creamy outcrop. About now the constipation tablet kicked in [an error for the opposite I noticed too late on swallowing !]. By some supreme effort I managed to reach the bus shelter at the Dounby road junction. Unfortunately for a seat it had narrow tilted 'board'. And naturally the bus arrived even later than expected - at certain times only the beginning and end are fixed, all other stops a movable feast. On the other hand I have known some drivers come to a stop five minutes or more before due time and not wait for passengers to come but go straight on. Which is "a bit of a bummer" if you are only twa minutes from reaching it !! Thank goodness there were toilets open at the bus station, as though 'things' had settled down the toilets at the Shapinsay slip might have been a step too far. Still, mission accomplished.
Had intended to make my third visit of the digging season to the Ness of Brodgar midweek, however the weather report for then sounded uncertain and so I decided to take advantage of this fine day. Actually when I reached the Brodgar road by bus I did encounter a brief period of light rain, enough to make me thankful for a jacket but not enough to dampen the spirits. Simply had to take photos of the panoramic vistas about me because the light in the distance so clear. If the bowl of land in which the Great Sacred Monuments of Stenness sits is measured from Bookan in the north to Bigswell in the south then the centre is abouthands of the junction [? Barnhouse Stone], and those are the extreme ends of the recorded mediaeval ritual peregrination. The seals were out bathing again on first few of the larger rocks in the Loch of Stenness (once the Loch of Voy, with the Loch of Harray called Muckle Water). At first you only see them if their backs are arched, otherwise they seem identical to the rocks nearer the ness. On the east side of the ness by the other end of the bridge (originally only very large stepping stones crossed the gap) a swan pair occupied their usual nest, the grey gosling nearing their size. Some small bird called to me from across the way but didnae show itself. On this side going up there are usually fulmars gliding by the low 'cliff' but I haven't noticed any this year - mind you it is late in their season for there is only one nesting at the Bay of Scapa now.
Reached the Ness of Brodgar in between the guided tours, so decided not to ask to look at the finds. Re Brodgar Boy what in one view did look idol-like (despite that lop-sided third 'eye') in another was distinctly a broken-off top with a short 'stem' at the bottom. Now that the rest has been found the object is two-and-a-half times as long and looks like a mini-staff (could be a 'baton de commandement' - the archaeologists name for a symbol of authority and/or for ceremonies - or a representation of one). Including the 'neck' and that stem there are three circumferential grooves that might have been for rope - you can easily imagine it with tassels ! In digging the midden of Structure Eight they have found a stone incised with an earth sign [Pars Fortuna].
Structure One has so far produced several dozen incised stones, the last what what they take for a representation of a comet (but a circle with three trailing lines has other meanings). But the most common symbol is what they are calling a double-triangle and associating with a bee, though these also been 'read' elsewhere as butterflies (contrast this with Banks Chambered Tomb's vees/chevrons, which are seen as birds). Pre C14 dating one at Stonehenge was wrongly identified with the Cretan labrys (double-axe). Much has been made of Stenness infuence on the Avebury area, so is this another indicator ? Finally on site the Neolithic roof tiles were removed, only for more to be revealed at the same place after further digging - the imp of the perverse wonders if this is a dump rather than collapse in sensu strictu.
Despite the very strong wind the first thing that I did was go up the viewing platform. The lighting being distinctly flat all structures tended to merge - in these conditions what is needed for photographing features is a little light rain I recall. First new item to 'pop out' the monumental hearth in Structure Ten. ImmediatelyI thought of the one in the Stones of Stenness circle, though I think comparisons will instead be made with Barnhouse 'village'. Next I saw a long slab with ends framed by angle topped orthostats. This must be the probable Structure Ten entrance they have found - having been caught out before by dodgy contexts they are holding back judgement until they can be certain it does not belong to another period or structure (I saw what could be another rectangular feature [or part of a passage/'street'] directly in front of it). Coming down again it did not surprise me that nothing further has happened to the NE corner that took my fancy when I came here with Orkney Blide Trust the previous week (not realising we would stay for the whole 90 minute tour I'd had to come back for The Work photography) as it is at the very edge of the dig. The day I came seemed to be dedicated to cleaning and recording several parts of the site so I tried to avoid getting in their way.
Nothing major looks to have appeared in the sides overlooked by the spoil heaps - I would dearly love to find out where that drain goes to in the piece by the western edge. Filling the appended SW corner Structure Twelve presently sits in comparative isolation from the rest of the buildings it feels to me. Either that will change in future seasons or it is really telling us something. Going round the final side and that massive squat standing stone still has pride of place in the SE corner. Does it extend much below what we see now or will it prove as shallow rooted as the red orthostat they have recently removed ?
Last year they lterally got to the bottom of the Lesser Wall of Brodgar, only to find that it stood on paving and possibly earlier structures. This year geophysics has confirmed that it goes between the sides of the ness and so it is back to being part of a wall circuit encompassing the site they are investigating (could the paving be an extended base ??). The Kockna-Cumming chambered mound still lies outside the whole and the Brodgar Standing Stone Pair straddle the wall. Are the stones from a prior age or were they put there later than the wall, either much later to show where it was or immediately after to mark it out ? Don't be misled by its narrowness in comparison to the Great Wall as only a ditch seperated the 4m thick Great Wall from one ouside of it 'only' 2m thick. Still thicker though - might there be a presently unlocated other Great Wall in parts still virgin to excavation ?? If the remains below the Lesser Wall are from an earlier period then might we re-interpret the putatative structures and likely hearth found in testing outside the Great Wall as coming from that time too instead of post-dating the wall as originally theorised? Certainly the public perception of the wall's primacy needs revising. Indeed it is my opinion the that the Great Wall (and possibly the circuit) comes yet later in the scheme of things than first thought.
Going back the sun illuminated the Stones of Stenness circle perfectly. Every detail of the northern side of one tall stone turned 3D like a thoroughly pox-marked face. This stone is such a pure geometric shape that any modern mason would be proud to own up to it. Two other stones seen almost on edge could be merged into one or turn into a very tight V like fanning fingers by only taking a few paces forward or back. I noticed that the top of the low stone group could be made to match the gap between two facing hillslopes above the south side of Finstown. Unfortunately I haven't managed to capture this in the shot I took, and anyway the setting has been re-erected twice [that we know of] to match changing fashions in interpretation.
At the junction I turned left onto the main road as I had plenty of time before the next bus. At one stage I looked behind me and saw an oddly coloured high-sided vehicle. Only as it passed me did I see it as a double-decker. This was a twin blow as not only did I need the bus but I had been especially eager to ride a double-decker as these are a new thing to Orkney and should give the car-less new perspectives on features in the landscape. Just not to be I fear. Away from the south side of the road I noticed that a small section of a long mound, or mounds, had become further exposed. All I could see was stone and I looked forward to making something out at last when I uploaded the photos to my PC. So my diappointment can be imagined when all that appears onscreen is a natural rocky creamy outcrop. About now the constipation tablet kicked in [an error for the opposite I noticed too late on swallowing !]. By some supreme effort I managed to reach the bus shelter at the Dounby road junction. Unfortunately for a seat it had narrow tilted 'board'. And naturally the bus arrived even later than expected - at certain times only the beginning and end are fixed, all other stops a movable feast. On the other hand I have known some drivers come to a stop five minutes or more before due time and not wait for passengers to come but go straight on. Which is "a bit of a bummer" if you are only twa minutes from reaching it !! Thank goodness there were toilets open at the bus station, as though 'things' had settled down the toilets at the Shapinsay slip might have been a step too far. Still, mission accomplished.
Labels: Bigswell, Bookan, Brodgar Boy, Ness of Brodgar, Standing Stones of Stenness
Wednesday, September 01, 2010
HOUTON-ONSTON-BRODGAR JUNE 24th 2010
Took the bus to Houton, which backs up opposite the lodge. Leaving the new ferry pier behind I decide to have another peek at the nausts down this side of the next pier. They still haul boats here and I see there is an exceedingly narrow path twisting down the bank a couple of metres high, so take myself down for more photos. The boat nousts are a mix of drystone walling and small and lengthy blocks. Don't know if this is handsome mishmash is the result of repairs or differing strengths needed. Certainly their origins lie before the old pier, as on the large-scale map the naust nearer to the pier shows as half lopped-off. Indeed though there may be more of it under the vegetation all you can see is a doubling of the wall with the remaining complete one. Close by the latter is a boatshed with two runners down to the sea, though it seems to be out of use as the doors' red paint is thoroughly fragmented.
Did think about taking the Scorradale road only to consider it a hill too far that day. So back up the ferry road and then left to the Clowally turn. Along the way I see two close steadings being demolished. If a replacement is being built I hope it will have suitably Orcadian features, not some wood monstosum that even on the mainland wouldna pass for traditional (come to that why do some drystane walls nowadays get Englished when re-built, this ain't The Peaks). At the rear of the large agricultural buildings Clowally has various lumps and bumps with stones sticking oot, including a big one, and even the O.S. shows no quaries this side. Perhaps a clue comes from its being named for a very old trackway going up to the ridge, according to Hugh Marwick's informant ("Orkney Farm Names" [sorely in need of a reprint and some sort of update, incomers would buy it in droves to name their new builds for instance]). Over from Clowally is the track I came up last time, likely part of said track (and possibly once going to Head Of Houton and the original kirk).
Continuing I came to an old dwelling on my left which I wrongly assumed to be Coubister as this was much further along the road. My error arises because I am terrible at gauging distances from maps- every time that I come this way my brain says Sower is just over the hill from Clowally [I am interested in the Castle, Hillock of Hoorse-ha (most likely not Broch Age but a smaller version of whatever lies beneath The Cairns in Eyrland, further towards Waithe)]. This site is Park Cottage at HY31140457, though it seems probable to me the cottage designation is late as it is evident that the present road has prevented its proper development. For what we have are three sections going diagonally up the hillside, each on its own level, though the furthest one has two windows and is the only one with chimneys too [a chimbley either end in fact] and behind it a wall is built back against the hill. The structure nearest the road has remained in use longest as it has a woodbeam and corrugated iron roof, whereas the other two stll have the remains of large slab roofing (small slab roofs are later). The middle section has been two features/structures as there is a vertical 'line' down the side - the first half has a stoop before the doorway and the second has a lintelled square/rectangular hole at the bottom next to the far end. Most of this is in the photos from roadside as I saw no near entry point for the field to proceed further this time. N.B. as elsewhere in Orkney "park" in the mediaeval sense, as in well parks or the parks of Scapa
At one point I fancied there were archaeologists up near the hill ridge looking fer summat as there were two or three big vehicles in what looked an out of the way place. Either that or perhaps a field studies group. Anyway they seemed to disperse sharpish as I watched so probably neither. Shortly after the northern end of the Scorradale road a gentleman who was trying a new way back fron a Renault dealer offered me a lift. I had refused an earlier offer (when the weather is fine a car interior can be fiercesome hot to the walker) and, realising higher powers were at work, got in. Went as far as the smithy junction before the Brig o' Waithe.
The tide being about to turn I did briefly consider that shore walk to Stromness again. Need to look at Quoyelsh again as last time what I thought to be a natural rock line at shore level showed up very artificial on the photo I took of something [probably] else. From the far end I then saw that at the very least this comprises a flat narrow rectilinear face from which the stone swept back in an arc and having rectangular forms at the other, which would mean this is the structure Marwick saw. Two options, that from this wall the building goes to the Point or that it comes to the shore - a very faint third possibily is that this is actually a collapsed vertical. Dave Lynn was wondering about the origins of the name Quoyelsh and my initial thought was the meaning for Elsness. Here the first element is thought to refer either to cramp (vitreous material, usually cinerary) or a cave. Of course with the Vikings this could be a kening i.e. it may have meant both. However, from my researches in The Orkney Room in this case the element appears to be the dialect word for an awl, thus referring to the Point itself. Still too close to high tide for a repeat walk. So I did something as it turned out equally daft.
Decided to attempt reaching the Cummi Ness sites from the north. So headed back towards Orphir, stopping a liittle short of Vasmire where on the west side of the road there is a [?track-turned-] drain runs to the shore by the side of the first fence I encountered. Made my way carefully as near the shore third 'burn' disappears below tallish vegetation. So continued down to the shore. This is composed of turf with watery channels running through and about, rather dodgy stuff. Almost the first thing that happened was my foot slipped in between. I fell forward, and whilst one hand sunk into the grass the other buried itself in one of the myriad potholes. A few metres further on my walking shoe went whoosh down a covered hole and the grungy water soaked onto my foot (fortunately not the one whose ankle I had twisted recently). From hereon in I went exceedingly careful. But after about 250m a real burn finally defeated me, so not even as far as Harbasue, let alone Dead Sand. At least from here I could see that the low mound where an aerial photo has the Cummi Ness cropmarks there is a similar one close to. I would say this is Gorrie's house as distinct from Gorrie's Knowe, though rather than being to do with a?Viking called Gorrie it strikes me as a variant of the placenaname Gyre/Gears (referring, then, to the triangular ness). From further photos the ness itself might not be so bad if you only approach it from the north by way of the broch as I originally thought. At least I tried. Decided not to risk going back via the drain but go to the bridge along the shore as much as possible. Only another 300m, so 850m in all ! At least there were small pieces of more pasture-like grass to my grand hopscotch now. Of that three hundred the first O.S. shows a path above high tide mark from where I had come down then turning back onto land after passing between an irregular tapering feature [? pond] about 20m long by roughly 3m wide and a much peedier version, from which another 100m to main road. There's probably some interesting stuff this side as from a very cursory inspection the tiny channels in one spot held fragments of a decorated dinner set [19thC perhaps] and in another a beer bottle, date unknown. Tide brought ?? Darn dodgy even with the right footwear. And then I had to climb up at the bridge as new fences stopped me going up any further from the shore.
Went to Unstan tomb again as I only have a slightly shaky picture of the bird on the lintel of the west chamber. Seem to be more graffiti than on the occasion I shot that. Though there is no mention of it in the 1884 papers there is plenty of evidence for such observational 'failures' of more famous sites even in recent times [and straightforward omissions]. If it weren't for the fact that this had been an unopened mound one would be thinking in terms of Pictish art. The neck seems short and the beak rather stubby for a loom (Great Northern Diver) or a scarf (cormorant). The neck might suit some geese, especially as there is a knob/Neb at the back of the beak. But the knobby beak aside a duck might be a better suit. Ah, skeldro 'sheldrake'. Evidence of its age is the wavy diagonal line that respects the bird instead of crossing it - perhap the lintel engraving had been intended as part of a larger scene.
I came to Brodgar the day before end of dig, as though they have made lovely discoveries on last days much will be be going back under black plastic early on the day. The 'shack' that is Bridgend had two workmen on top painting the roof brightly (but eventually abandoned the last corner for the day because of the rain later).
Past Bridgend went around the back of the Kokna-Cumming mound to come upon the Lesser Wall of Brodgar from behind by a gentler slope. Glad they have realised that this is a late feature as otherwise what would one make of the Brodgar standing stone pair straddling its view eastwards and the tomb outside its supposed remit. To me the point of it is to face the Staneyhill Tomb - I forget what they call it in political science but it is like gardeners "borrowing a view" by bringing a further vista into the visitor's eyeline. What does this mean for the hypothesis that the Greater Wall of Brodgar was meant to form a northern boundary to the whole Ness assemblage ? It doesn't seem to have any similar alignment [and perhaps too thick to find a statistically valid one anyhow] but is it equally late, performing a non-liminal function yet to be identified. At the bottom of the Lesser Wall's southern side there is now a pavement just under the level of the Wall base by the remains of what is to my eye another wall at a slight angle to the later Wall. Near the bottom of the Wall it looks to me as if there are what is left of two cruder walls parallel to one another over and at right angles to my putative earlier wall, and hence
the pavement below. To my dismay the area of trench behind the Wall has still not been dug below the level of its top. Probably a "health and safety" thing. Here there are two arcs of collapsed wall, perhaps an inner and outer section. Not that this necessarily means one or both had not been straight when still standing. Oh, I can barely wait for their investigation. And then maybe sometime they can go down to the Wall base here to see if the Lesser Wall might be part of some other structure yet.
On to the main Ness of Brodgar site a bit of height not only gains you perspective but also frees you of photographing beige stone against beige stone and having to decipher it later ! First up is the new to this season next-to-roadside observation platform with a long ramp for wheelchair access. Then there are the large spoil heaps by the northern and western sides, as long as you don't mind the shifting soil underfoot in places. The space between Lochview and the dig is too smaa for anything but a photographic tower for the bosses, and Joe Public can't use that. I thought that I hadn't been on the tower at the Howe of Howe but my memory plas me fause and I indeed took several shots from it. It amazes me that at first glance the site looks practically the same as last time. Up on the platform on this side of the site the bulk is taken up by Structure 10 on your left with its, ahem, standing stone. No work is ongoing in the 'cathedral' now. In front of the platform's near end Structure 8 is divine. Along the western edge are what I see as three sub-square interior cells but on plan I see are duplicated on the opposite side, forming two rectangular and one long oval sub-divisions of the whole. This is basically how it has looked since last year. But on my third visit of the season exterior to the northern wall at the trenches edge are (I think) three small strucures that make you think of mini-roundhouses. All this mixing of linear and circular or sub-circular forms throughout the site strike me as less a striving for a practical form [and/or effective ritual space] and more the search for an artistic vision, squaring the circle to put the art into architecture. Very nice, whatever. Next is the small Structure 7, pinned between 8 and the Structure 1+9 combo.
The latter can be seen from the first spoil heap. This is where I start. Today the weather lashed down from Lyde whilst I stood on top. Reminded me of the time when three seperate thunderstorms converged on Howe and I eventually went in to leave supervisor Stephen solitary like a tall lightning rod before he was finally ordered in. Up here the first thing you spot is a large circular wall arc [?9 - the structure plan on Orkneyjar is from the season's start] in front of which work has been going on in a linear structure apparently leading up and terminating before it with what I take to be either the wide facade of a forecourt or two flanking ?guard-cells. Looking left from this by the edge of the trench is a short length of low parallel orthostats that catch my eye but have been left behind for now.
From the top of the next spoil heap is a clear view of Structure 1, a large structure (oval or semi figure-of-eight) with rectangular niches or cells scattered along the interior edge. These are formed by the drystane walling (but multi-coloured) and tall thin orthostats. Near the trench edge to the right a double wall or pair of walls with pavement between them is nicely exposed. At the far end of the mound I look south to Structure 12, a large clean-looking oval with a couple of long cells. On my previous visit I only noticed the one nearest the spoil heap after I got back from an image taken near Lochview. That nearest the road looked as if someone had taken the Great Wall of Brodgar and removed the flesh to leave a rectangular skin.
The space between 12 and 10, or in 10, has three or four standing stones. I think they are roughly in a square. It is remarkable how many odd stones are scattered about the site, different in colour (red makes a change from beige) or shape (proper looking standing stones or blocky forms mostly). Not too much rhyme or reason for the most part, so I am thinking this is just a monumental version of picking up a pebble on a beach and taking it home.
All the above is only how I have this eclectic site in my mind's eye. Carefully as they excavate still there are different stages in any season's dig, structure's co-mingle and turn out to be part of other's. During an extended period of experimentation you can't even sort features out by materials used. And any single structure can be such a glorious mix of drystane walls, slabs, orthostats and standing stones, along with what I might call exhibition pieces.
By the time I am done with all three cameras there are still twenty minutes until the next tour and I give a moment's thought to tagging along for the display of new finds at its end. You are never sure what will be displayed or whether you will be able to take piccies, the latter depends on the group more than the presenter. When you're feeling faint walking is better than standing, for the former is merely a controlled fall biologically speaking. So straight on to Tormiston and the bus home.
Took the bus to Houton, which backs up opposite the lodge. Leaving the new ferry pier behind I decide to have another peek at the nausts down this side of the next pier. They still haul boats here and I see there is an exceedingly narrow path twisting down the bank a couple of metres high, so take myself down for more photos. The boat nousts are a mix of drystone walling and small and lengthy blocks. Don't know if this is handsome mishmash is the result of repairs or differing strengths needed. Certainly their origins lie before the old pier, as on the large-scale map the naust nearer to the pier shows as half lopped-off. Indeed though there may be more of it under the vegetation all you can see is a doubling of the wall with the remaining complete one. Close by the latter is a boatshed with two runners down to the sea, though it seems to be out of use as the doors' red paint is thoroughly fragmented.
Did think about taking the Scorradale road only to consider it a hill too far that day. So back up the ferry road and then left to the Clowally turn. Along the way I see two close steadings being demolished. If a replacement is being built I hope it will have suitably Orcadian features, not some wood monstosum that even on the mainland wouldna pass for traditional (come to that why do some drystane walls nowadays get Englished when re-built, this ain't The Peaks). At the rear of the large agricultural buildings Clowally has various lumps and bumps with stones sticking oot, including a big one, and even the O.S. shows no quaries this side. Perhaps a clue comes from its being named for a very old trackway going up to the ridge, according to Hugh Marwick's informant ("Orkney Farm Names" [sorely in need of a reprint and some sort of update, incomers would buy it in droves to name their new builds for instance]). Over from Clowally is the track I came up last time, likely part of said track (and possibly once going to Head Of Houton and the original kirk).
Continuing I came to an old dwelling on my left which I wrongly assumed to be Coubister as this was much further along the road. My error arises because I am terrible at gauging distances from maps- every time that I come this way my brain says Sower is just over the hill from Clowally [I am interested in the Castle, Hillock of Hoorse-ha (most likely not Broch Age but a smaller version of whatever lies beneath The Cairns in Eyrland, further towards Waithe)]. This site is Park Cottage at HY31140457, though it seems probable to me the cottage designation is late as it is evident that the present road has prevented its proper development. For what we have are three sections going diagonally up the hillside, each on its own level, though the furthest one has two windows and is the only one with chimneys too [a chimbley either end in fact] and behind it a wall is built back against the hill. The structure nearest the road has remained in use longest as it has a woodbeam and corrugated iron roof, whereas the other two stll have the remains of large slab roofing (small slab roofs are later). The middle section has been two features/structures as there is a vertical 'line' down the side - the first half has a stoop before the doorway and the second has a lintelled square/rectangular hole at the bottom next to the far end. Most of this is in the photos from roadside as I saw no near entry point for the field to proceed further this time. N.B. as elsewhere in Orkney "park" in the mediaeval sense, as in well parks or the parks of Scapa
At one point I fancied there were archaeologists up near the hill ridge looking fer summat as there were two or three big vehicles in what looked an out of the way place. Either that or perhaps a field studies group. Anyway they seemed to disperse sharpish as I watched so probably neither. Shortly after the northern end of the Scorradale road a gentleman who was trying a new way back fron a Renault dealer offered me a lift. I had refused an earlier offer (when the weather is fine a car interior can be fiercesome hot to the walker) and, realising higher powers were at work, got in. Went as far as the smithy junction before the Brig o' Waithe.
The tide being about to turn I did briefly consider that shore walk to Stromness again. Need to look at Quoyelsh again as last time what I thought to be a natural rock line at shore level showed up very artificial on the photo I took of something [probably] else. From the far end I then saw that at the very least this comprises a flat narrow rectilinear face from which the stone swept back in an arc and having rectangular forms at the other, which would mean this is the structure Marwick saw. Two options, that from this wall the building goes to the Point or that it comes to the shore - a very faint third possibily is that this is actually a collapsed vertical. Dave Lynn was wondering about the origins of the name Quoyelsh and my initial thought was the meaning for Elsness. Here the first element is thought to refer either to cramp (vitreous material, usually cinerary) or a cave. Of course with the Vikings this could be a kening i.e. it may have meant both. However, from my researches in The Orkney Room in this case the element appears to be the dialect word for an awl, thus referring to the Point itself. Still too close to high tide for a repeat walk. So I did something as it turned out equally daft.
Decided to attempt reaching the Cummi Ness sites from the north. So headed back towards Orphir, stopping a liittle short of Vasmire where on the west side of the road there is a [?track-turned-] drain runs to the shore by the side of the first fence I encountered. Made my way carefully as near the shore third 'burn' disappears below tallish vegetation. So continued down to the shore. This is composed of turf with watery channels running through and about, rather dodgy stuff. Almost the first thing that happened was my foot slipped in between. I fell forward, and whilst one hand sunk into the grass the other buried itself in one of the myriad potholes. A few metres further on my walking shoe went whoosh down a covered hole and the grungy water soaked onto my foot (fortunately not the one whose ankle I had twisted recently). From hereon in I went exceedingly careful. But after about 250m a real burn finally defeated me, so not even as far as Harbasue, let alone Dead Sand. At least from here I could see that the low mound where an aerial photo has the Cummi Ness cropmarks there is a similar one close to. I would say this is Gorrie's house as distinct from Gorrie's Knowe, though rather than being to do with a?Viking called Gorrie it strikes me as a variant of the placenaname Gyre/Gears (referring, then, to the triangular ness). From further photos the ness itself might not be so bad if you only approach it from the north by way of the broch as I originally thought. At least I tried. Decided not to risk going back via the drain but go to the bridge along the shore as much as possible. Only another 300m, so 850m in all ! At least there were small pieces of more pasture-like grass to my grand hopscotch now. Of that three hundred the first O.S. shows a path above high tide mark from where I had come down then turning back onto land after passing between an irregular tapering feature [? pond] about 20m long by roughly 3m wide and a much peedier version, from which another 100m to main road. There's probably some interesting stuff this side as from a very cursory inspection the tiny channels in one spot held fragments of a decorated dinner set [19thC perhaps] and in another a beer bottle, date unknown. Tide brought ?? Darn dodgy even with the right footwear. And then I had to climb up at the bridge as new fences stopped me going up any further from the shore.
Went to Unstan tomb again as I only have a slightly shaky picture of the bird on the lintel of the west chamber. Seem to be more graffiti than on the occasion I shot that. Though there is no mention of it in the 1884 papers there is plenty of evidence for such observational 'failures' of more famous sites even in recent times [and straightforward omissions]. If it weren't for the fact that this had been an unopened mound one would be thinking in terms of Pictish art. The neck seems short and the beak rather stubby for a loom (Great Northern Diver) or a scarf (cormorant). The neck might suit some geese, especially as there is a knob/Neb at the back of the beak. But the knobby beak aside a duck might be a better suit. Ah, skeldro 'sheldrake'. Evidence of its age is the wavy diagonal line that respects the bird instead of crossing it - perhap the lintel engraving had been intended as part of a larger scene.
I came to Brodgar the day before end of dig, as though they have made lovely discoveries on last days much will be be going back under black plastic early on the day. The 'shack' that is Bridgend had two workmen on top painting the roof brightly (but eventually abandoned the last corner for the day because of the rain later).
Past Bridgend went around the back of the Kokna-Cumming mound to come upon the Lesser Wall of Brodgar from behind by a gentler slope. Glad they have realised that this is a late feature as otherwise what would one make of the Brodgar standing stone pair straddling its view eastwards and the tomb outside its supposed remit. To me the point of it is to face the Staneyhill Tomb - I forget what they call it in political science but it is like gardeners "borrowing a view" by bringing a further vista into the visitor's eyeline. What does this mean for the hypothesis that the Greater Wall of Brodgar was meant to form a northern boundary to the whole Ness assemblage ? It doesn't seem to have any similar alignment [and perhaps too thick to find a statistically valid one anyhow] but is it equally late, performing a non-liminal function yet to be identified. At the bottom of the Lesser Wall's southern side there is now a pavement just under the level of the Wall base by the remains of what is to my eye another wall at a slight angle to the later Wall. Near the bottom of the Wall it looks to me as if there are what is left of two cruder walls parallel to one another over and at right angles to my putative earlier wall, and hence
the pavement below. To my dismay the area of trench behind the Wall has still not been dug below the level of its top. Probably a "health and safety" thing. Here there are two arcs of collapsed wall, perhaps an inner and outer section. Not that this necessarily means one or both had not been straight when still standing. Oh, I can barely wait for their investigation. And then maybe sometime they can go down to the Wall base here to see if the Lesser Wall might be part of some other structure yet.
On to the main Ness of Brodgar site a bit of height not only gains you perspective but also frees you of photographing beige stone against beige stone and having to decipher it later ! First up is the new to this season next-to-roadside observation platform with a long ramp for wheelchair access. Then there are the large spoil heaps by the northern and western sides, as long as you don't mind the shifting soil underfoot in places. The space between Lochview and the dig is too smaa for anything but a photographic tower for the bosses, and Joe Public can't use that. I thought that I hadn't been on the tower at the Howe of Howe but my memory plas me fause and I indeed took several shots from it. It amazes me that at first glance the site looks practically the same as last time. Up on the platform on this side of the site the bulk is taken up by Structure 10 on your left with its, ahem, standing stone. No work is ongoing in the 'cathedral' now. In front of the platform's near end Structure 8 is divine. Along the western edge are what I see as three sub-square interior cells but on plan I see are duplicated on the opposite side, forming two rectangular and one long oval sub-divisions of the whole. This is basically how it has looked since last year. But on my third visit of the season exterior to the northern wall at the trenches edge are (I think) three small strucures that make you think of mini-roundhouses. All this mixing of linear and circular or sub-circular forms throughout the site strike me as less a striving for a practical form [and/or effective ritual space] and more the search for an artistic vision, squaring the circle to put the art into architecture. Very nice, whatever. Next is the small Structure 7, pinned between 8 and the Structure 1+9 combo.
The latter can be seen from the first spoil heap. This is where I start. Today the weather lashed down from Lyde whilst I stood on top. Reminded me of the time when three seperate thunderstorms converged on Howe and I eventually went in to leave supervisor Stephen solitary like a tall lightning rod before he was finally ordered in. Up here the first thing you spot is a large circular wall arc [?9 - the structure plan on Orkneyjar is from the season's start] in front of which work has been going on in a linear structure apparently leading up and terminating before it with what I take to be either the wide facade of a forecourt or two flanking ?guard-cells. Looking left from this by the edge of the trench is a short length of low parallel orthostats that catch my eye but have been left behind for now.
From the top of the next spoil heap is a clear view of Structure 1, a large structure (oval or semi figure-of-eight) with rectangular niches or cells scattered along the interior edge. These are formed by the drystane walling (but multi-coloured) and tall thin orthostats. Near the trench edge to the right a double wall or pair of walls with pavement between them is nicely exposed. At the far end of the mound I look south to Structure 12, a large clean-looking oval with a couple of long cells. On my previous visit I only noticed the one nearest the spoil heap after I got back from an image taken near Lochview. That nearest the road looked as if someone had taken the Great Wall of Brodgar and removed the flesh to leave a rectangular skin.
The space between 12 and 10, or in 10, has three or four standing stones. I think they are roughly in a square. It is remarkable how many odd stones are scattered about the site, different in colour (red makes a change from beige) or shape (proper looking standing stones or blocky forms mostly). Not too much rhyme or reason for the most part, so I am thinking this is just a monumental version of picking up a pebble on a beach and taking it home.
All the above is only how I have this eclectic site in my mind's eye. Carefully as they excavate still there are different stages in any season's dig, structure's co-mingle and turn out to be part of other's. During an extended period of experimentation you can't even sort features out by materials used. And any single structure can be such a glorious mix of drystane walls, slabs, orthostats and standing stones, along with what I might call exhibition pieces.
By the time I am done with all three cameras there are still twenty minutes until the next tour and I give a moment's thought to tagging along for the display of new finds at its end. You are never sure what will be displayed or whether you will be able to take piccies, the latter depends on the group more than the presenter. When you're feeling faint walking is better than standing, for the former is merely a controlled fall biologically speaking. So straight on to Tormiston and the bus home.
Labels: Clowally, Cummi Ness, Gorrie Knowe, Hoorse-ha, Houton, naust, Ness of Brodgar, noust, Onston, Park Cottage, Quoyelsh, Unstan
Tuesday, September 01, 2009
WALLS I SCREAM
Regarding the Ness of Brodgar complex the present feeling is still that this seperates a landscape of the dead featuring the Ring of Brodgar from a land of the living featuring the Standing Stones of Stenness. However on the north side of the Brodgar bridge is a large mound that is now believed to be a chambered tomb. In modern times this first appears as Kokna-Cumming, described as a burnt mound. Probably not long after this mention the location was lost. Then an unrecorded excavation found an arrangement of circular walls, leading to its interpretation as a broch (there was another broch [Big Howe ,now only a rise in a field] near the Stones of Stenness). However when geophysics recently revealed evidence of tiering the resemblance to sites such as the Wideford Hill cairn led to the re-think. Until this season the most talked about feature of the Ness of Brodgar complex was still the extremely wide 'Great Wall' that ran across the ness from loch to loch at the site's northern end. Now attention has shifted to the 'cathedral', probably the largest Neolithic building yet found in Europe (or at least the UK), stretching across a large area of the site and disappearing under the present Lochview buildings. This has features resembling Maes Howe, to which it is aligned. This
year they did a small trial excavation on the other side of Lochview and found the 'lesser wall of Brodgar'. This isn't quite as wide as the 'Great Wall' but stands at least 1.4m high on the southern face - it has only been dug into a little, and only on that side, so could go down much further. This is at right angles to the Brodgar standing stone pair that sit in the Lochview garden, and if it cuts across the ness in similar fashion to the 'Great Wall' looks likely to bisect the area between them [I still suspect something of the gatepost pair on a rise at the Brodgar farm itself, even if they are only replacements or show where something could damage the plough]. The feeling is that this marks the southern edge of the Ness of Brodgar complex. If Kokna-Cumming is a tomb what is its relationship to the complex [with The Howe in mind are we sure that Big Howe was only a greenfield broch?[ and what would it mean to the proponents of a living/dead dichotomy for the main Stenness monuments ? Or could it be that the mound is not a tomb either but yet anothe addition to the Ness of Brodgar menagerie ?
The antiquarians recorded quaint names for the main Brodgar monuments [Broidgar in an early newspaper account]. These have been dismissed as fanciful inventions but could be Anglicisations or translations of proper Orcadian names, as has happened
with the likes of Mine Howe and Towerhill. The Standing Stones of Stenness was the Circle of the Moon. The large hearth is formed by four stones of standing stone dimensions and runs N/S E/W but as presently setup the 'altar'/'dolmen' stone setting is at a slight angle. Perhaps that is because as is hypothesised the latter had been used to frame Maes Howe. The Watch Stone, along with a large stub found during roadmaking, is thought to be perhaps part of the SE arc of another circle [call it the Watch Circle]. I haven't heard of any further stones being located by underwater survey and so assume this to have been even more incomplete than the Stones of Stenness [the current position on that circle] or been extensively robbed for a later site. The Comet Stone is a stone arrangement but always referred to as a standing stone because the original surveyor/antiquarian never completed his investigations. Next is the Ring of Brodgar, alias the Circle of the Moon. Finally up on the hill is the Ring [/Rim] of Bookan, a henge monument called the Circle of Stars. It has been noted that this is of similar dimensions to the Stones of Stenness and also has a central setting. Unfortunately a powerful 19th century laird adapted this to be the seat of his Thing, so its original complexion is unknown. The Comet Stone is the tallest surviving part on the mound of a NW/SE aligned setting, an unequal tee being obvious. To the NW it points to the Ring of Bookan, the Ring of Brodgar lies in the extended NW/SW quadrant. NE points towards the Staney Hill standing stone and to the Henge multi-period site of which it is likely a part [apart from a talk by the student involved there doesn't even appear to be even grey literature yet - hopefully when he completes his thesis...]. SE probably points to the 'Watch Circle', but more importantly the short arm of the tee frames the Ness of Brodgar perfectly [and probably the Stones of Stenness beyond too, though I couldn't see that far with what I had]. Could it be that the Comet Stone site is like a grand surveyor's tool ??
Regarding the Ness of Brodgar complex the present feeling is still that this seperates a landscape of the dead featuring the Ring of Brodgar from a land of the living featuring the Standing Stones of Stenness. However on the north side of the Brodgar bridge is a large mound that is now believed to be a chambered tomb. In modern times this first appears as Kokna-Cumming, described as a burnt mound. Probably not long after this mention the location was lost. Then an unrecorded excavation found an arrangement of circular walls, leading to its interpretation as a broch (there was another broch [Big Howe ,now only a rise in a field] near the Stones of Stenness). However when geophysics recently revealed evidence of tiering the resemblance to sites such as the Wideford Hill cairn led to the re-think. Until this season the most talked about feature of the Ness of Brodgar complex was still the extremely wide 'Great Wall' that ran across the ness from loch to loch at the site's northern end. Now attention has shifted to the 'cathedral', probably the largest Neolithic building yet found in Europe (or at least the UK), stretching across a large area of the site and disappearing under the present Lochview buildings. This has features resembling Maes Howe, to which it is aligned. This
year they did a small trial excavation on the other side of Lochview and found the 'lesser wall of Brodgar'. This isn't quite as wide as the 'Great Wall' but stands at least 1.4m high on the southern face - it has only been dug into a little, and only on that side, so could go down much further. This is at right angles to the Brodgar standing stone pair that sit in the Lochview garden, and if it cuts across the ness in similar fashion to the 'Great Wall' looks likely to bisect the area between them [I still suspect something of the gatepost pair on a rise at the Brodgar farm itself, even if they are only replacements or show where something could damage the plough]. The feeling is that this marks the southern edge of the Ness of Brodgar complex. If Kokna-Cumming is a tomb what is its relationship to the complex [with The Howe in mind are we sure that Big Howe was only a greenfield broch?[ and what would it mean to the proponents of a living/dead dichotomy for the main Stenness monuments ? Or could it be that the mound is not a tomb either but yet anothe addition to the Ness of Brodgar menagerie ?
The antiquarians recorded quaint names for the main Brodgar monuments [Broidgar in an early newspaper account]. These have been dismissed as fanciful inventions but could be Anglicisations or translations of proper Orcadian names, as has happened
with the likes of Mine Howe and Towerhill. The Standing Stones of Stenness was the Circle of the Moon. The large hearth is formed by four stones of standing stone dimensions and runs N/S E/W but as presently setup the 'altar'/'dolmen' stone setting is at a slight angle. Perhaps that is because as is hypothesised the latter had been used to frame Maes Howe. The Watch Stone, along with a large stub found during roadmaking, is thought to be perhaps part of the SE arc of another circle [call it the Watch Circle]. I haven't heard of any further stones being located by underwater survey and so assume this to have been even more incomplete than the Stones of Stenness [the current position on that circle] or been extensively robbed for a later site. The Comet Stone is a stone arrangement but always referred to as a standing stone because the original surveyor/antiquarian never completed his investigations. Next is the Ring of Brodgar, alias the Circle of the Moon. Finally up on the hill is the Ring [/Rim] of Bookan, a henge monument called the Circle of Stars. It has been noted that this is of similar dimensions to the Stones of Stenness and also has a central setting. Unfortunately a powerful 19th century laird adapted this to be the seat of his Thing, so its original complexion is unknown. The Comet Stone is the tallest surviving part on the mound of a NW/SE aligned setting, an unequal tee being obvious. To the NW it points to the Ring of Bookan, the Ring of Brodgar lies in the extended NW/SW quadrant. NE points towards the Staney Hill standing stone and to the Henge multi-period site of which it is likely a part [apart from a talk by the student involved there doesn't even appear to be even grey literature yet - hopefully when he completes his thesis...]. SE probably points to the 'Watch Circle', but more importantly the short arm of the tee frames the Ness of Brodgar perfectly [and probably the Stones of Stenness beyond too, though I couldn't see that far with what I had]. Could it be that the Comet Stone site is like a grand surveyor's tool ??
Labels: Comet, Henge, Ness of Brodgar, Watch Stone
Friday, August 14, 2009
COMET STONE
This site shows how size isn't everything. There was a complicated set of ceremonies surrounding matrimony involving all three rings and another Bookan site. Though nothing is recorded for this place, if the early name of Ulie Stane comes from
dialect ullie 'oil' might I suggest a reference to chrism and perhaps ceremonies surrounding childbirth ? Note that this was the way to the Ring of Brodgar on the old track that ran through the "sacred monuments", making it a gatekeeper kind-of - in the 19th century gentlemen still doffed their caps to it.
[My stone measurements are likely accurate but the distances between them and across the mound are as near as I could manage alone. {NMRS converted to metric} ]
The Comet Stone aligns NW/SE and sits in a depression presently measuring 2.7m by 2.3m and 20cm deep. The main stone stands 1.88m at the SE end {1.75m} and 1.97m at the NW, depth 27-28cm {29cm}, width 70cm at base increasing to 73 {76cm}.
Measured height differs enough from NMRS to indicate surface erosion [there is a long scrape in the northern half too]. "Lines on the Landscape, Circles from the Sky" by Trevor Garnham gives an alignment to Maes Howe. but unless my compass reading is absolutely useless is incorrect this is not so, explaining why the meticulous antiquarians would miss such a thing- the alignment would seem, rather, to carry on to the Ring of Bookan [though this is on the hillslope invisible from here unless it stood higher formerly or had a superstructure such as a stone ring or posts] and perhaps ? to something roughly in the Dowsgarth region in the other direction. This NW/SE alignment is shared by the Stanerandy Tumulus (for a long while thought to be standing stones) and the Deepdale Stones, both on Mainland, and the Langsteeen on Rousay - we know so few s.s. orientations that there could well be more. The relationship with the recorded 'stubs' is striking, forming a geometric unequal tee-formation.
Following the alignment 2.97m {2.67m} brings you to the western edge of Stub i and from that 2.75m takes you to the eastern edge of Stub ii. These define the mound's axes. Axis A , defined by Comet to Stub i 'W', is perpendicular to Axis B which is along the line of the two stubs (a NE/SW alignment shared with the Watch Stone stump and the Spurdagrove s.s. pair). Using 'mound' for the area currently left rough then the mound is 16~16.5m along Axis A and ~11m along Axis B - NMRS gives approximate size of 13.7x12.8 and ~80cm high. At the edge, 6.5m from the Comet Stone's SE end only a few inches away [<5deg] from where Axis A meets the SE periphery, there can be seen the top of another stone, call it Stub iii, that is probably like to Stub i except that only the very top is showing - careful ground prodding proves the top extends beyond the visible surface and I imagine if more were exposed the axial fit might be closer still (Stub iii is level with the grass and has a smooth appearance, not layered like the other three recorded stones). Similarly a few inches off Axis B , though roughly a metre short of where this meets the NE periphery, there is a roughly rectangular prostrate Slab 3.98m from Stub i 'E'. There's a slight space underneath where the lower surface has 'flaked' loose fragments [I presume they are from this leastways]. Careful search failed to disclose any further stones, so the fact that these appear to mark the axes ends is fascinating (though what of the other ends ?).
Used the 10x zoom on my digital camera [380mm equivalent] to examine three of the directions - for even if the indication from the stubs to the SW was a particular one of the lesser mounds without knowledge of any specific importance it is only presently referrable to chance. Looking along the Comet Stone in conjunction with stub i the Ness of Brodgar is perfectly framed, like looking down the barrel of a gun. From the Comet Stone alone to the SE, apart from the Orphir area, the only possibilty is the putative lost stone circle incorporating the Watch Stone. Viewing along the stubs to the NE confirms that it has Staney Hill in its sights, the standing stone being fractionally left of centre with the 'new' site of Henge to its right [both sides of the Grimeston road]. Disappointed to find the white cottage in the NW direction, which means disregard my previous photo info as the Ring of Bookan is on the LH side of the cottage to its left ! As this alignment passes to the east of the Ring of Brodgar I had read this as an ignoring that circle, but someone could instead read the two axes NW and SW directions marking out the area about it instead.
Stub i 73 x 23 and 16 & 19cm exposed height at ends, depth unknown - evidence of post-mediaeval [?modern] break at NE end [Stub i 'E']
Stub ii 29 x 30 and 29cm exposed height, depth unknown [still whole ??]
Stub iii minimum 20cm down in mound, surface 23 [19 visible] by 15cm, depth unknown
Slab almost entirely exposed, 40x36 cm and 6cm thick at least (stone fragments in 4cm space beneath it)
This site shows how size isn't everything. There was a complicated set of ceremonies surrounding matrimony involving all three rings and another Bookan site. Though nothing is recorded for this place, if the early name of Ulie Stane comes from
dialect ullie 'oil' might I suggest a reference to chrism and perhaps ceremonies surrounding childbirth ? Note that this was the way to the Ring of Brodgar on the old track that ran through the "sacred monuments", making it a gatekeeper kind-of - in the 19th century gentlemen still doffed their caps to it.
[My stone measurements are likely accurate but the distances between them and across the mound are as near as I could manage alone. {NMRS converted to metric} ]
The Comet Stone aligns NW/SE and sits in a depression presently measuring 2.7m by 2.3m and 20cm deep. The main stone stands 1.88m at the SE end {1.75m} and 1.97m at the NW, depth 27-28cm {29cm}, width 70cm at base increasing to 73 {76cm}.
Measured height differs enough from NMRS to indicate surface erosion [there is a long scrape in the northern half too]. "Lines on the Landscape, Circles from the Sky" by Trevor Garnham gives an alignment to Maes Howe. but unless my compass reading is absolutely useless is incorrect this is not so, explaining why the meticulous antiquarians would miss such a thing- the alignment would seem, rather, to carry on to the Ring of Bookan [though this is on the hillslope invisible from here unless it stood higher formerly or had a superstructure such as a stone ring or posts] and perhaps ? to something roughly in the Dowsgarth region in the other direction. This NW/SE alignment is shared by the Stanerandy Tumulus (for a long while thought to be standing stones) and the Deepdale Stones, both on Mainland, and the Langsteeen on Rousay - we know so few s.s. orientations that there could well be more. The relationship with the recorded 'stubs' is striking, forming a geometric unequal tee-formation.
Following the alignment 2.97m {2.67m} brings you to the western edge of Stub i and from that 2.75m takes you to the eastern edge of Stub ii. These define the mound's axes. Axis A , defined by Comet to Stub i 'W', is perpendicular to Axis B which is along the line of the two stubs (a NE/SW alignment shared with the Watch Stone stump and the Spurdagrove s.s. pair). Using 'mound' for the area currently left rough then the mound is 16~16.5m along Axis A and ~11m along Axis B - NMRS gives approximate size of 13.7x12.8 and ~80cm high. At the edge, 6.5m from the Comet Stone's SE end only a few inches away [<5deg] from where Axis A meets the SE periphery, there can be seen the top of another stone, call it Stub iii, that is probably like to Stub i except that only the very top is showing - careful ground prodding proves the top extends beyond the visible surface and I imagine if more were exposed the axial fit might be closer still (Stub iii is level with the grass and has a smooth appearance, not layered like the other three recorded stones). Similarly a few inches off Axis B , though roughly a metre short of where this meets the NE periphery, there is a roughly rectangular prostrate Slab 3.98m from Stub i 'E'. There's a slight space underneath where the lower surface has 'flaked' loose fragments [I presume they are from this leastways]. Careful search failed to disclose any further stones, so the fact that these appear to mark the axes ends is fascinating (though what of the other ends ?).
Used the 10x zoom on my digital camera [380mm equivalent] to examine three of the directions - for even if the indication from the stubs to the SW was a particular one of the lesser mounds without knowledge of any specific importance it is only presently referrable to chance. Looking along the Comet Stone in conjunction with stub i the Ness of Brodgar is perfectly framed, like looking down the barrel of a gun. From the Comet Stone alone to the SE, apart from the Orphir area, the only possibilty is the putative lost stone circle incorporating the Watch Stone. Viewing along the stubs to the NE confirms that it has Staney Hill in its sights, the standing stone being fractionally left of centre with the 'new' site of Henge to its right [both sides of the Grimeston road]. Disappointed to find the white cottage in the NW direction, which means disregard my previous photo info as the Ring of Bookan is on the LH side of the cottage to its left ! As this alignment passes to the east of the Ring of Brodgar I had read this as an ignoring that circle, but someone could instead read the two axes NW and SW directions marking out the area about it instead.
Stub i 73 x 23 and 16 & 19cm exposed height at ends, depth unknown - evidence of post-mediaeval [?modern] break at NE end [Stub i 'E']
Stub ii 29 x 30 and 29cm exposed height, depth unknown [still whole ??]
Stub iii minimum 20cm down in mound, surface 23 [19 visible] by 15cm, depth unknown
Slab almost entirely exposed, 40x36 cm and 6cm thick at least (stone fragments in 4cm space beneath it)
Labels: Henge, Ness of Brodgar, Ring of Bookan, Ring of Brodgar, Staneyhill, Stoney Hill, Watch Stone
